Audi A6 C7 3.0T — Valley Service Work Instruction

📱 Using this page

Tap a phase header to collapse/expand; tap a checklist item to tick it (saved on this device). Fully offline. Photos are B8/B8.5 S4 & C7 jobs — same valley; captions note where your car differs.

⛔ The one scope rule: injectors stay put

This job pulls the lower intake manifolds off the top of the injectors but does not remove the injectors — you're not touching the Teflon injector tip-seals. The kit's injector seal set is the only leftover; everything else gets used.

★Master references & torque table▾

Bookmark/skim these once before starting. Each phase below also links the exact guide + photo source for that step.

Primary written DIYs (photos in this page come from these): FCP Euro — Water Pump & Thermostat · FCP Euro — PCV / oil separator

Factory (erWin/ElsaWin) procedure + exact torques, reproduced by a C7 owner: Audizine — Complete 3.0T Thermostat DIY (manual + tips)

Your exact thermostat (GPS billet) install videos: GPS full assembly install · GPS housing-only install

Closest full video to your job (PCV+WP+t-stat, every connector): 3.0T TFSI PCV/WP/thermostat — full walkthrough

Why you pressure-test before button-up (cautionary): Audizine — coolant leak after new crossover pipe (pinched O-ring)

TORQUE Write these on masking tape, stick to the fender

Fastener	Torque	Note
Thermostat housing bolts — 7× T30	9 Nm	6.6 ft-lb. GPS billet uses same pattern.
Front coolant pipe — 4× T30 + 1× T25	9 Nm	2 T30 per cylinder head + 1 T25 left of WP.
Water pump mounting — 7× T30	9 Nm	Into aluminum — do not exceed.
WP pulley — 3× M10 triple-square	20 Nm	⚠️ higher! Torque AFTER belt is on (belt holds pulley still).
Supercharger nuts — 6× 13mm	22 Nm	Criss-cross pattern.
Coolant-pipe bracket bolt	snug / 9 Nm	Factory exploded-view shows 22 Nm for the main bracket bolt, but if yours threads into a light bracket, snug it (~9 Nm) — don't blindly torque an unidentified bolt to 22. Verify in factory data if unsure.
Idler pulley (only if removed)	40 Nm	Accessory-belt idler.
PCV / oil separator — 14× T30	9 Nm	Start ALL by hand first.
Lower intake manifold hardware (2 nuts + 5 bolts each)	9 Nm	10mm nuts + T30 bolts.
Fuel-line connections (compression fittings)	27 Nm	17mm.
Threaded fuel-line fitting at driver manifold	40 Nm	19mm.
Fuel pressure sensor	22 Nm	27mm.
Engine lifting-eye bolt	27 Nm	If removed.
Charge-air-cooler bleeder screw (left)	1.5–3 Nm	Very light — plastic.
Small T25 into plastic (side covers, brackets)	2.5 Nm	Hand-tight. Over-torque cracks plastic.
Spark plugs (NGK 1675 or 2668)	½ turn	New gasket plug: finger-tight to seat, then ½ turn (≈25 Nm — above your wrench's range, so use the turn method). NO anti-seize. See the spark-plug phase (separate job).

The one rule that prevents stripped threads

Everything into the valley threads into plastic or aluminum at 9 Nm. The only things that get real torque are the WP pulley (20 Nm, after belt), the SC nuts (22 Nm), the fuel fittings (27/40 Nm), and the spark plugs. Don't confuse them. When in doubt, it's 9 Nm.